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How to Hire a General Contractor in California

Written by a licensed California contractor, including the checks most homeowners skip — how to verify a license in two minutes, the warning signs that should end a conversation, and how to read a bid so you compare like with like.

By Philip Howard, Owner & General Contractor · CA Lic. #836369 Published August 13, 2026 12 min read

Last updated August 13, 2026. Figures reflect real project pricing across Sonoma, Napa, Marin and Solano counties and are reviewed each season.

Key Takeaways

What This Guide Covers

  1. Verify the license before anything else
  2. Ten red flags that should end the conversation
  3. Twenty questions to ask before you hire
  4. How to read a bid and compare quotes fairly
  5. What California law requires in your contract
  6. Frequently Asked Questions

Verify the license before anything else

California's Contractors State License Board maintains a free public lookup. Search the license number or business name at cslb.ca.gov and confirm all of the following:

CheckWhat you want to see
StatusActive. Not expired, suspended or inactive.
ClassificationClass B for general building. Specialty classes (C-10 electrical, C-36 plumbing) for trade-specific work.
BondContractor bond on file, currently $25,000 minimum.
Workers' compensationOn file, or a valid exemption if they have no employees.
Name matchThe licensed entity matches the name on your contract exactly.
HistoryAny citations, judgments or prior suspensions.

Licence classes worth knowing

The $500 rule: anyone performing work in California where labor and materials total $500 or more must hold a valid license. Below that threshold they must state in writing that they are unlicensed. Hiring an unlicensed contractor for larger work leaves you exposed on liability, workmanship and insurance — and many homeowner policies will not respond to a claim arising from unlicensed work.

Ten red flags that should end the conversation

  1. They ask for a large payment upfront. California caps the down payment at $1,000 or 10% of the contract price, whichever is less. A request for 30–50% "to buy materials" is not standard practice; it is a violation.
  2. They will not give you a license number. Or the number does not match the name on the contract when you check it.
  3. Cash only, or a discount for cash. Usually signals no insurance, no workers' comp, or no intention of pulling permits.
  4. They suggest skipping the permit. Unpermitted work surfaces at resale, can void insurance coverage, and may have to be opened up for inspection later at your expense.
  5. They ask you to pull the permit yourself. An owner-builder permit shifts legal liability for the work onto you. A licensed contractor pulls their own permits.
  6. The bid is a single number on one page. You cannot evaluate what you cannot see. A real bid itemizes scope, allowances, exclusions and a schedule.
  7. High-pressure timing. "This price is only good today" or "we have leftover material from a nearby job" are sales tactics, not construction practice.
  8. No proof of insurance. Ask for a certificate naming general liability and workers' compensation, and confirm it directly with the insurer.
  9. No verifiable local references. You want addresses and phone numbers for projects of similar scope in your area, and you want to actually call them.
  10. They dodge specifics. Vagueness about what is excluded, how change orders are priced, or who the subcontractors are tends not to improve after the contract is signed.

Twenty questions to ask before you hire

Credentials

  1. What is your CSLB license number and classification?
  2. Is the license held by the exact entity that will sign my contract?
  3. Can I see certificates for general liability and workers' compensation?
  4. How long have you been building in this county specifically?

The project

  1. Have you done projects of this scope in the last two years? May I see them?
  2. Who will actually be on site day to day, and who supervises?
  3. Which trades are your own employees and which are subcontracted?
  4. How many other jobs will be running at the same time as mine?
  5. What are the most likely surprises in a house of this age?

Money

  1. What is explicitly excluded from this price?
  2. What assumed unit costs sit behind each allowance?
  3. Is there a contingency line, and who controls it?
  4. What is the payment schedule, and which milestones trigger payment?
  5. How are change orders priced and approved?
  6. Will you provide unconditional lien releases with each payment?

Process

  1. Who pulls the permits and schedules inspections?
  2. What is the realistic schedule, including permit review?
  3. How will you communicate with me, and how often?
  4. What warranty do you provide, and what does it cover?
  5. How do you protect the parts of my house you are not working on?

You are not looking for perfect answers. You are looking for specific ones. A contractor who has genuinely thought about your project answers concretely; one who has not answers in generalities.

How to read a bid and compare quotes fairly

A proper bid should contain all of the following. If any are missing, ask for them before comparing:

Normalizing three bids

Build a simple side-by-side table. For each bid, record: total price, tile allowance, fixture allowance, cabinet specification, whether permits are included, whether painting is included, contingency amount, and stated duration. The apparent gaps usually collapse once everything is on the same basis — and the remaining differences are the ones actually worth discussing.

A bid is a communication document, not just a price. How clearly a contractor writes down what they intend to do is the single best early predictor of how clearly they will communicate once work begins.

What California law requires in your contract

A home improvement contract in California must be in writing and must include:

Mechanics liens — the risk most homeowners miss

If your contractor fails to pay a subcontractor or supplier, that party can place a mechanics lien on your home, even though you paid the contractor in full. You can end up paying twice.

The protection is straightforward: request unconditional lien releases from every subcontractor and material supplier with each progress payment. A contractor accustomed to working properly will not be surprised by the request — it is routine on commercial work and entirely reasonable on residential.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I check if a contractor is licensed in California?

Search the contractor's license number or business name at cslb.ca.gov, the Contractors State License Board's free public lookup. Confirm the status is active, the classification matches your work, the bond and workers' compensation are on file, and the licensed entity name matches the name on your contract exactly. The check takes about two minutes.

How much can a contractor legally ask for upfront in California?

California law caps the down payment on a home improvement contract at $1,000 or 10 percent of the contract price, whichever is less. A contractor requesting 30 or 50 percent upfront to buy materials is operating outside the law, and this is one of the most reliable warning signs available to a homeowner with no construction knowledge.

What happens if I hire an unlicensed contractor in California?

You take on significant exposure. If a worker is injured on your property and there is no workers' compensation, you can be held liable. Your homeowner's insurance may decline claims arising from unlicensed work, unpermitted work can surface and cause problems at resale, and you have far less recourse for defective workmanship. California requires a license for any job where labor and materials total $500 or more.

What is a mechanics lien and how do I protect myself?

A mechanics lien is a legal claim a subcontractor or material supplier can place on your property if they were not paid, even if you already paid your general contractor in full, which can mean paying twice for the same work. Protect yourself by requesting unconditional lien releases from every subcontractor and supplier with each progress payment.

Should I hire the contractor with the lowest bid?

Not automatically. A dramatically low bid usually reflects omitted scope rather than efficiency, and a contractor with no margin tends to recover it through change orders or reduced quality. Normalize the bids by lining up allowances, exclusions and specified materials, then compare. Often the apparent savings disappear entirely once the bids are on the same basis.

Who should pull the building permit, me or my contractor?

Your licensed contractor should pull the permit. If a contractor asks you to pull an owner-builder permit instead, that shifts legal responsibility for the work onto you, and it often indicates the contractor is unlicensed or unwilling to have the work inspected under their own license. Treat the request as a serious warning sign.

Ask us any of these twenty questions

Philip Howard is a licensed Class B general contractor, CSLB #836369, building in Sonoma and Napa County since 2000. Verify us at cslb.ca.gov before you call — we'd rather you did.

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